Exquisite Mediterranean fare served as close to the water as it gets.
Devonport. If house prices and handbags are anything to go off, this coastal nook sits as one of Auckland’s finest suburbs. A prestigious postal code, littered with organic eateries, owner-operated boutiques and an inordinate amount of bumbag toting tourists, the one thing that has always seemed a little off to us has been the wharf. A sad shed perched on the end of a pier, the old building looks as if it has been ousted by the village and is threatening to jump. So, we couldn’t be happier that after decades spent slumping into architectural depression, it has finally been given a reason to be, thanks to new eatery, Devon On The Wharf.
Opening Thursday, 25th August, the all-day brasserie is making the most of its unparalleled location with unique offerings morning, noon and night. From the eye-watering hour of 5.30am, the eatery’s grab-and-go kiosk will roll out fresh-pressed juices, house roasted coffee and a selection of packed lunches for time-pressed nautical commuters. Meanwhile, in the main restaurant (at a far more leisurely pace), a full breakfast menu will delight, with dishes like blueberry pancakes, multi-grain porridge and truffled scrambled eggs on a crusty Turkish bagel.
The day continues in a similar pattern with the other side of the kiosk seamlessly transitioning into a cold stone ice cream counter as the restaurant moves on to lunch and then dinner menus. With a Mediterranean slant, the food draws from the sea and can be enjoyed any way you wish, with platters, souvlakis and Turkish pides all featuring on the extensive carte. Owners Alex Isik and Nigar Ivgen, the husband and wife duo behind the ever-expanding Nazar Group (Nomad, Deco, Bodrum Kitchen), pull their Turkish heritage into play too, with our attention being unwaveringly drawn to the baklava plate; a sticky serving of paper-thin filo pastry cakes, overflowing with pistachio and walnut ice cream. Drool.
Every detail of the space is considered, from the patterned concrete blocks and bespoke furnishings to the spearmint green wrap that encases the coffee grinders. “Little things make a big point,” shrugs Isik when discussing the detail, and it’s evident by how many people pop their head in to ask when they are opening that he’s right. Catering to the tourists, commuters and locals in one fell swoop, it seems the pier need fear no more, because Devon On The Wharf is exactly what it has been waiting for.