Kicking the year off in style (literally) was Men’s Fashion Week AW19, where discerning, style-savvy men from all over gathered in Paris to celebrate the latest offerings from designers like Virgil Abloh and Kim Jones. From conveyor belt runways to Michael Jackson-inspired looks to new lines of menswear from renowned labels, 2019 is looking set to be another year of innovative, intriguing fashion.
The runway at Dior Men
In a particularly innovative move, Kim Jones sent his models gliding down a conveyor belt runway for his presentation of Dior Men AW19. Offering a statuesque line-up that placed more attention on the garments, Jones’ meticulous tailoring, a running motif through the collection, was given space to shine. It was suiting for the modern man — characterised by precise lines but finished in softer textiles, unexpected patterns and an earthy palette that felt distinctly contemporary.
Loewe menswear gets its runway debut
After five years of exhibiting Loewe’s menswear collections off the runway, Jonathan Anderson moved his presentation to a more traditional fashion week format, citing how he thought it important that the clothes were viewed moving. Sending models swathed in the label’s new season tailoring, knitwear and statement leather boots (a kind of 80s-meets-fisherman-meets-western hybrid) down the ochre yellow runway, Anderson reinforced Loewe’s luxury reputation and his own eye for high style.
Prada’s monster presentation
In typical Prada fashion, Miuccia Prada presented a collection in which beauty and ugliness held equal influence. Inspired by the Rocky Horror Picture show and Frankenstein, Prada’s AW19 showcased bold patterns and colours, used to lighten the military-style tailoring that was peppered throughout. The central message seemed to borrow from a story we all know well: that of the monster with the big heart.
Virgil Abloh’s ode to the King of Pop
After debuting his first collection for Louis Vuitton last year, it would seem the hype around Virgil Abloh doesn’t look set to die down any time soon. This season, however, Abloh’s collection held court in a calmer, more dignified way than the last outing. Citing Michael Jackson as inspiration the designer said he didn’t want to step into the realm of costume, rather putting a spotlight on the ideas of “humanity” that Michael Jackson inspired — hence the use of flags from around the world. Granted there were beaded tops, statement gloves and military motifs pulled from the kind of clothing the King of Pop used to wear, but it’s clear that Abloh’s approach was more conceptual.
Sunnies in the club at Celine’s first standalone menswear show
Hedi Slimane’s second show in his role as Phoebe Philo’s successor at Celine (no accent) spoke, once again, to the designer’s penchant for after-dark, cool-kid style. Characterised by tailoring, heritage fabrics and an elegant, albeit predictable line up of overcoats, leather jackets and skinny ties, the collection was refined and wearable, yes. But groundbreaking? Not really.
