The thing about Clarence Rd Eatery, the team told us when we stopped by one drizzly afternoon, is that it is a place that has been created ‘for the neighbourhood’. When we arrived at the usually quiet hour of 4pm, a steady stream of locals popping by for coffee, cakes and small plates made it abundantly clear that they not only know about the new all-day eatery, but they like it.

Tucked on the corner of Northcote’s Clarence Road and Queen Street, the space is bright and open, with white tiled walls, polished concrete floors and brass and wooden features. Very kid- and family-friendly, the atmosphere is inviting and the menu caters to suit. Breakfast, for instance, runs until 3pm with truffle scrambled eggs, citrus-cured salmon Benedict and apple crumble chia pots (among others) to tempt. Served with smoothies, fresh juices, coffee or the delicious gelato shakes (pistachio is our pick), it’s an easy way to greet the day.

At lunch, a selection of pizzas, salads and well-considered small dishes come into play, as does the more substantial, ‘over the coals’ selection. Chargrilling meat with just a few key ingredients — as to allow the natural flavours to speak for themselves — the lamb rump, hapuka and pilsner-marinated half chicken are all worthy orders, but the standout has to be the Can-can Pork. A cut that takes a cross-section of the animal, it encompasses the loin, ribs and belly, and is first cured (in a similar way to Italian prosciutto) before being cooked and served with burnt lime, apple and chilli.

Though its position right next door to the Bridgeway Cinema makes Clarence Rd Eatery a prime pre-movie dinner destination, that’s merely an added bonus. Because at its core, the restaurant is here for the whole neighbourhood, whatever time of day they want to stop in. An approachable all-day eatery, Northcote is lucky to have it.

Opening hours:
6.30am-late, seven days