We’ve been waiting with bated breath for inner-city dining precinct Queen’s Rise to come to life. So as the final touches are still being applied here and there, in time for its official opening this week, it was music to our ears to hear that one of the first eateries to cross the finishing line was Lowbrow, a second offering from the acclaimed chefs behind Culprit, Jordan MacDonald and Kyle Street. Citing the casual new locale as a rather different experience to their Wyndham street restaurant, albeit with a similar focus on the factors of quality and novelty, it quickly became evident that some tantalising, new-style food awaits.

Swooning at news that the pair would be serving inventive bites such as fresh market fish ceviche served with guacamole and Sriracha on corn tostadas; white bread tacos with fried breaded Cloudy Bay clams, iceberg lettuce and their own brand of Thousand Island dressing; and organic Bostock chicken wings fried up ‘real good’ with hot sauce, the bar was set high. And while bigger dishes like the indulgent beef brisket with its pickled courgette and courgette purée is good enough to rival the best barbecue fare in town, the only dilemma at Lowbrow is knowing how much space to reserve for the epic cocktails and hedonistic desserts. Reading the words ‘fried birthday cake’ and ‘salted caramel and pretzel sundae’ is more enough to make you reassess your priorities, even if you’re “not that much of a sweet tooth”.

Playing to our dining persuasions for something fun and unique while still adhering to simple culinary finesse, Lowbrow is set to lure in the punters. With an enticing contemporary, graphic fit-out — punctuated by pink neon accents and sheepskin seat covers — to match its vibrant, delicious and approachable fare, to say that Lowbrow is living up to its name? We’re not so sure.

Opening hours: 7am till late, 7 days a week